It's my complete pleasure. I am glad you had such a great season!
"Changing the World, One Pumpkin At A Time." This is the communications center for the Southern California Giant Pumpkin Growing Community, Extreme Gardening Workshop Attendees and the Pumpkinmania! Giant Pumpkin Weigh-off and Contest
Friday, August 28, 2009
It's my complete pleasure. I am glad you had such a great season!
Monday, August 24, 2009
Wednesday, August 19, 2009
Attached is a picture of the North Stars' Pumpkin.
It’s doing very well…and stylish too (in a Gardner & Bloome hat)!
Tuesday, August 18, 2009
HOW TO GROW BIG SQUASHES
By Mr. WM. WARNOCK, Goderich, Ont.
Who grew a single specimen of Rennie's Mammoth Squash weighing 365 pounds, and exhibited at the Worlds Fair, Chicago, in 1893. Also a squash weighing 403 pounds, which was exhibited at the St Louis Exposition in 1904. My land is made in good condition, being heavily manured every year, it is of a gravelly formation with about sixteen inches of clay loam on top. A three hundred pound Squash can be grown on any part of it by the following method of cultivation: For each
hill I intend to plant, about the first of April I take two good wheelborrow loads of hen manure, and mix with four barrows of good soil taken from some other part of the lot: this is mixed a second time in the middle of April. The first of May I add four barrows of well rotted manure and mix thoroughly, then about the eighteenth of May make the hills and plant, dig out a space seven feet in diameter and fourteen inches deep, fill in my compost mixing, and with it some of the best earth which was thrown out, and when finished, the hill will be about ten feet in diameter. and six inches higher in the centre than the surrounding level. Then plant the
seed. Hills want to be about twenty feet apart; work the ground well until the plants commence to run. When about three feet long, I mulch the ground all over for twenty feet in diameter around each hill with Horse manure three inches deep, and stake the vines down with sticks to keep the wind from rolling them about, so that they may root at every joint. It is of great advantage to keep the vine from fruiting as long as possible, by pruning all fruit off until about the last week in July; this will give time enough to mature a Three Hundred Pound Squash by the first of October, for there must be a big vine to produce a big squash. I practice fertilizing a
few of the first bloom that come, when I think the vine is strong enough to grow a good specimen, by cutting off some of the fresh false bloom, trim the corolla or flower leaf off, and rub the stamen in around the fresh fruit bloom. This is necessary when fruit bloom opens on a morning that is unfavorable for bees to do their work, and it assures the setting of the specimens just where you want them. It also gives extra vigor to the growth of fruit to be well pollinized. When the first perfect specimens have set well, say four or five inches in diameter, cut all other fruit and blossoms off, and nip the ends off vines and all bloom that shows twice a
week, so that the vine is not exhausted with the great quantity of false bloom that would naturally come. Now while the great growth of the Squash is going on I use liquid manure twice a week along three or four of the principle vines of each hill, often six pails to the hill if it is in a dry time. Great care must be taken to give plenty of water; for instance, in 1893, when I grew the great specimen that was the largest on exhibition at the Worlds Fair, it was a dry time with us at Goderich, and having the advantage of the town water service, I sprayed each hill twice a week through August and the first two weeks in September, drenching the ground each time.
P.S. I expect all have heard of feeding Squash and Pumpkin by injecting milk or other stuff . This is a ridiculous silly humbug. I have practiced several methods along this line when I was younger, but it only makes me ashamed to confess it, and I am now quite
satisfied the only thing that will increase the size of the fruit comes out of the vine, and the vine must get its support from the natural roots.
Good morning, Pumpkinistas!
Much has been written about Howard Dill and his experiments in cross-breeding that eventually led to the creation and patent of the 'Dill's Atlantic Giant' pumpkin cultivar. In fact, Howard Dill became even more famous in 1979 and heralded a new era, when he grew a 438 pounder that eclipsed the record that had stood for 76 years, the 403 pound pumpkin grown by William Warnock, in 1903.
Who was William Warnock? To find out, I contacted Susan Glousher, William Warnock's great granddaughter, in Ontario, Canada. Ms. Glousher was most gracious, and gave me permission to reprint Warnock's classic "How To Grow Big Squashes", his medal from the 1900 Paris World's Fair/Exposition Universelle for growing a 400 pound pumpkin, seen above, and gave this description of her illustrious ancestor: "William was a great writer and I believe quite well read. I have another article he wrote for our local paper called the Moralities of Horticulture (1908) that I think is brilliant. He also frequently wrote to the Canadian Horticulturalist, which I have a couple entries from their archives as well. He loved Horticulture and the fraternity created by it...his passion is quite evident in his writing. William named his son Linneaus after Carl Linneaus the Father of Taxonomy."
Thank you very much, Susan for sharing these precious materials and your account of your great, great grandfather, William Warnock!
Monday, August 17, 2009
Friday, August 14, 2009
Good morning, Pumpkinistas!
It appears that the Southern Rebels are continuing their dominance in the competition between Kellogg Garden Products www.kellogggarden.com Ontario and Lockeford, CA facilities! It's tough to estimate the exact weight by looking at a picture, but Linus is certainly a giant pumpkin. It's just beginning to turn orange, so it still has some growing to do. Plus, I can see that the foliage still looks healthy, so we'll see how many more pounds the pumpkin can gain before the fall.
Bravo!
Thursday, August 13, 2009
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Jim Fredricks' Pumpkin is Available!I am looking to sell my pumpkin. I live in an area that has no garage or space to keep it once harvested. It is currently covered while growing. When I weigh it, I will have fun and get the news out here for the weighing. September 5th is when I plan on doing things. Once people see the pumpkin, it would be toast if left alone outside! It currently stands at 680 lbs. estimated weight. It should go into the low 700's, maybe mid 700's, depends how long it grows out. I think it will weigh heavy, but we will see. The fruit is worth over $700 dollars at that size, but I will take half of that at $350. I'm not doing it to make money, but it does help cover growing costs. The fruit would need to be picked up September 5th at my house in Santee, CA. Here are some pictures of it. I can't get a front end picture until the pumpkin is uncovered when done.
Wednesday, August 12, 2009
Tuesday, August 11, 2009
Although my pumpkin was small by many standards, here is a pretty good sunflower from the garden.
Width: It’s 16″ across. 18: with the fold
Weight 9.4 lbs.
Height of plant: 10′4″
Circumference of the stem at root ball 8.75″
This plant was a monster to get out of the ground. I had to cut it down rather than knock it over and pull it out by the roots.
We took out 14 plants today many heads at 12” or more.
Anyone wanting seeds from this one can contact me at this page:
http://erichasissues.wordpress.com/2009/08/06/giant-sunflower/
Leave a comment and I’ll contact anyone interested."
Wednesday, August 05, 2009
Linus, August 4, 2009Tuesday, August 04, 2009
Friday, July 31, 2009
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Good morning, Pumpkinistas!
Just an update on the patch for you. The fruit is now at day 46 and estimated at 550 lbs. The weather has cooled to the low 80's, I hope it goes back up to the 90 degree mark, she grows better in warmth. She is doing around 16 lbs a day now. She is really filling out sideways. I think it will be a nice looking fruit! Hope she hangs together and keeps growing slow and steady on the decline. I also included a picture of my stump, hard to tell in the photo, but it is really big. I also put a baseball by the fruit for size comparison.
Thursday, July 30, 2009

A personal interest in beekeeping led Vermont author Rowan Jacobsen to write a timely and fascinating account of honey bee (Apis mellifera) colony collapse disorder (CCD) and its potential causes and effects on global agriculture and food production in 2008. Of particular interest, is his account of the importance of bee pollinators and the 2 billion dollar annual California almond crop, which also is the largest single market for out-of-state beekeepers, and represents 82 percent of world production. In fact, notes Jacobsen, providing pollination services to fruit, nut, and vegetable growers, has displaced honey production as the largest source of revenue for North American commercial beekeepers.
Jacobsen begins with a historical overview of honey, the honey bees and their behavior, followed by the identification of the first signs, then the potential causes and effects of CCD. Jacobsen gives an entertaining, fast-paced, educational and even-handed treatment of CCD.
I enjoyed and found useful the beekeeping, growing pollinator garden resources, including plant lists, in the appendices. Practical application of Jacobsen’s information and research is a highlight for potential readers of Fruitless Fall. For more information on Fruitless Fall and Rowan Jacobsen, please visit: www.rowanjacobsen.com
The author graciously responded to some questions about Fruitless Fall and his own beekeeping experiences on July 30th 2009:
SS: What was your favorite experience during the writing and research of Fruitless Fall, and why?
RJ: I’d have to say picking up my bees from Kirk Webster and driving back to my home (about two hours away) with them buzzing in the back of my station wagon. The hive entrances were sealed so they couldn’t get out, but the whole car was humming and, it felt very much like I was part of the hive.
SS: Do you have any plans for any additional agricultural or entomology-themed books? If so, what are you writing about?
RJ: In a way, yes. My new book touches on aquaculture, which is farming the sea. It’s about the importance of shellfish to our past and future. It comes out next month. You can learn more here: http://www.rowanjacobsen.com/books/the-living-shore.
SS: Have you come across any additional information or research that would allow you to arrive at more definitive reasons for the cause or causes of CCD since writing Fruitless Fall?
RJ: The paperback edition of my book comes out this week and includes some updates. There are no definitive conclusions yet, but nosema cerana has risen to the top of the most-wanted list. It seems to be the major killer in Europe, Australia, and Japan, where things are getting worse. Also, some new information has come to light that is very damning for imidacloprid. Here’s a good summary: http://www.salon.com/env/feature/2009/05/18/bees_pesticides/print.html. The EPA is now doing a new review of imidacloprid-with results due in 2014!
SS: How are your bees doing?
RJ: My bees did great during the summer and fall that I had them. Then, one snowy November evening, a bear came and tore apart the hives and ate them. I'll be getting more, but only after I’ve got the electric fence in place!
SS: Thank you very much for your kind cooperation and assistance!
RJ: My pleasure, Stuart.
Wednesday, July 29, 2009

SimbaHere’s our update. We have 3 giant pumpkins at this moment. Big Tim is estimated at above 100lbs today, Semele at 28lbs and Palene at 37lbs. These are all on the same plant #2. Big Tim on the primary vine and the others on secondary within 18ft of the seeded plant roots. Plant #1 had a pumpkin Simba that got to 23lbs and then withered away. It was a sad day to see a potential leave us. Unfortunately, we had culled all others from that plant so we will have to wait for the next blossom to take.
Notice the picture of Simba with the ring around the blossom. This was our first sign that something was unusual and there may be a problem. Next was the weight dropped on the next measure. Days later, we cut into her and found each segment within seemed to have developed well. I guess one of her segments didn’t get pollinated.
We are very happy with our results this year. Our second year has brought new lessons and also many more rewards. With Thor at 43.5lbs last year, we are more than double our weight results and triple in pumpkins.
More later,
Wendy"
Truly, it's been a bountiful giant pumpkin growing season for the Taylors!
Monday, July 27, 2009
To Prune Or Not To Prune?
By Jack LaRue
Should I prune my pumpkin plants?
Why should I prune my plants?
What should I prune?
How should I prune?
When do I start / stop pruning?
Should I terminate the secondary vines?
Should I terminate the main vine?
How large shall I let the plant get?
Recently I attended a seminar on how to grow giant pumpkins. One of the speakers mentioned that he does not
prune his plants. This caught me by surprise. I wonder how many growers are not pruning their plants. His statement
reminded me of a question that Dick Wallace asked me a few years ago. Dick asked me if I wanted to grow
giant pumpkins or salad? An un-pruned pumpkin plant can grow a huge salad and okay giant pumpkins. I do not
want to grow okay giant pumpkins. I want to grow really big giant pumpkins. So what do you want to grow?
Why should we prune our plants? A plant that is not pruned soon turns into a tangled mess of leaves and vines.
The plant will compete with itself for light, food and water. A tangled plant is also much harder to maintain. The
answer is simple. Unless you want to grow salad you want the plant to concentrate most of its energy on growing
a giant pumpkin.
To prevent the plant from becoming a tangled mess it is a widely accepted practice to prune all of the tertiary
vines. Some growers will prune every other secondary vine as well. The benefit to pruning every other secondary
is less vine burying and a more open plant. An open plant is easier to maintain. An open plant also has better air
circulation which helps prevent and reduce the spread of disease. The draw back to pruning every other secondary
is less leaf surface and the lack of male flowers needed for pollination.
How should I prune? I use a pair of scissors and a bucket of bleach water or a bottle of alcohol. No not for
drinking, for disinfecting the scissors when I move to a different plant. Some growers will have a pair of scissors
or knife for each of their plants. Again this practice is to help prevent the spread of disease from one plant to another.
I like to prune early in the morning and let the plants heal for 10-12 hours before I bury vines. I compare a
cut on the plant to a cut on your finger. If you cut your finger you want to let it heal or produce a scab before you
start working in the soil. The same conditions apply to your plants. The soil is full of pathogens waiting for a port
of entry into your plant. Do not open the door for them!
The choice of pruning patterns is up to the grower. There are many patterns to choose from - only the growers
creativity is the limiting factor. To my knowledge there is no one pattern that works better than any of the others.
Growers need to plan ahead and prune their plants to fit the allotted space. The important factor here is manage the
plant and not to let it get out of control.
When should I start / stop pruning? I like to start pruning my giant pumpkin plans shortly after the main vine is
on the ground. When I stop pruning depends on the size of the plant and the time of the year. If the season is cool
and the plant is small I will let it grow until late in the season. Yes, I have been guilty of growing salad! If the
plant is large with a fruit set on the main vine out 15 feet or better, it is time to start terminating vines.
Should I terminate the secondary vines? Yes! When is up to you. The length of the secondary vines can be determined
by space or time. I usually let the secondary vines run at least ten feet before I terminate them.
Should I terminate the main vine? Again up to you. I never terminate the main vine. I may have all of the secondary
vines terminated but leave the main vine or the vine with the fruit set on it grow as long as it can. I want
the plant to concentrate all of its energy on the vine with the fruit. If that is the only vine still growing it makes
sense that the plant will send its energy to that vine.
How large should I let the plant get? At least 400 square feet or as large as the season will allow. What I mean
is get the plant as large as you can before fruit set. After fruit set you need to answer Dick’s question do you want
to grow salad or pumpkins?
Friday, July 24, 2009




Thursday, July 23, 2009

I received these pictures of Catherine S.' vine yesterday afternoon, together with a series of questions regarding pollination. Fortunately, the recent posting about California native bees and other insect pollinators was very timely.
Have a great morning, and keep those vines watered!
Wednesday, July 22, 2009
I know you keep an eye on us and subscribe to our e-newsletter; however, this week's e-newsletter has a picture of our vine that is a week old. So, I thought I'd share the most recent pictures of King Arthur and a few of the knights of the Round Table.
We are very happy with our vine this year and the biggest fruit is almost as big as Mighty Mabel, our bid last year for giant pumpkin.
Thanks for all your advice and support.
Regards,
Polipumehana Aki
Yamagami's Nursery"







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